1. What is the difference between a traditional skin-mounted fish and a fiberglass reproduction/replica?

With a skin-mounted fish, the taxidermist removes the skin from the flesh and cures it. The skin is then stretched over a Styrofoam form, dried and then painted to try to mimic the original coloring of the fish.

While the skin-mounted fish may initially look pretty good, deterioration will often occur over time, including leaching of oil especially around the fins and gill area. There will often also be shrinkage and curling of the fins.

With a fish reproduction/replica no part of the actual fish is used so there is no opportunity for the above-mentioned problems to occur.

2. What, exactly, is a fish reproduction or replica?

A fish reproduction/replica is a fiberglass casting from a two-part mold that was created from an actual fish. All parts of the fish are cast, including the head, fins, even the mouth interior.

When done properly and in a natural pose, a good casting will reproduce all of the details of the specimen fish - including scale detail, fin rays and facial features.

3. Can you do a mount for me even if I did not keep the fish?

Yes, as explained in answer #1, no part of your fish is needed to do a reproduction/replica. I have access to a huge variety of species and sizes and can almost certainly match one to your trophy.

4. What do you need from me in order to produce a reproduction/replica of the fish I caught?

Ideally I would need all of the following:
Length
Girth
Weight
Sex of Fish
Color Photos

Measure the length of your fish from the tip of the nose down the lateral line to the outer edge of the center of the tail.

Measure the girth of your fish around the body in front of the dorsal fin which is usually the thickest part of the fish.

A soft, flexible measuring tape (usually cloth or plastic) is the best tool to take length and girth measurements, especially on a fish that is going to be released.

The most useful color photos are those taken immediately after the fish is landed. Colors of many species of fish change drastically the longer they are out of the water so the quicker the photos can be taken the better.

5. What if I don’t have measurements of my fish?

If you have good photos of your catch I can probably guesstimate the size by comparing it to other things in the photo, such as the height of the person holding the fish, the length of the rod, etc.

6. What if I don’t have the weight of my fish?

I can usually estimate the weight of a fish pretty closely with length and girth measurements and a photo. And we all know that when it comes to fish trophies - bigger is usually better!

7. What if I didn’t get any photos of my fish?

Take a look through some fishing magazines that focus on the species of fish that you caught - Salmon-Trout-Steelheader, Saltwater Fishing, Fly Fisherman, etc. They usually have great color photos - just keep looking until you find one or more pictures that, in your mind, most closely depict the coloration of your fish. The better the photos, the better I’ll be able to replicate your fish’s coloring.

8. How much do your mounts cost?

I’m not a production studio: I take each order as a special project, working with the customer to make sure that a piece of artwork is created for him that will let him relive the experience of that trophy catch over and over again.

Pricing is also done on an individual basis depending upon the size of the fish (and whether it will be viewed from all sides or displayed as a traditional wall-mount), the extent of habitat and showcase desired and the creative design involved.

After we’ve arrived at a price, I require a 50% deposit before I add your mount to my work calendar.

9. How long does it take you to complete a fish reproduction/replica?

Depending on my current backlog at the time of receipt of a deposit, I can usually complete a mount within 3-4 months. Under special circumstances, I can sometimes get an order out more quickly.

10. How should I take care of my fish reproduction?

Fiberglass fish reproductions/replicas should be kept out of direct sunlight to prevent the paint from fading. They can be kept clean with the use of a soft-bristle, dry brush or feather duster.

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